New York Songlines: Chambers Street

River Terrace | West (Stuyvesant High) | Greenwich St | Hudson | Varick | 6th Ave | West Broadway | Church | Broadway (Tweed Courthouse) | Centre (Municipal Building)

Named for John Chambers, a lawyer who was a Supreme Court judge in colonial New York. He and John Murray, who may or may not be the namesake of Murray Street, were honored by the city's Common Council because they returned a 5-pound legal fee paid to them by the council.


Battery Park City

Battery Park City by Atomische.com, on Flickr A 92-acre planned neighborhood built on landfill from the construction of the World Trade Center. Based on a 1979 master plan that tied the new area into the existing Manhattan grid, the result is one of Manhattan's most appealing and livable examples of modern urban development. Battery Park City - Memorial Day by baslow, on Flickr

The park that hugs the shoreline is known as the Esplanade, and this section of it is called the Nelson A. Rockefeller Park; I would guess it's the largest stretch of unbroken lawn in Manhattan south of Central Park. In any case, it's a popular spot for sunbathing. NYC - Battery Park City: Nelson A. Rockefeller Park - The Real World by wallyg, on Flickr

There's a playground here with The Real World, an assemblage of bronze, cartoon-like sculptures by Tom Otterly. There seems to be some kind of allegory here involving capitalism and evolution, but I never quite get it.

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South:

400 (corner): Tribeca Park is a 27-story 1999 apartment building by Robert A.M. Stern, designed to look like a collection of buildings.






















Corner (455 North End): The Hallmark is a 14-story retirement home, designed by Lucien LaGrange and completed in 2000.


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Tribeca Bridge Tower is a 26-story apartment tower that rises above PS/IS 89, completed in 1998.


























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399 (corner): Tribeca Pointe is a 42-story apartment tower built in 1999 by Rockrose Development; its base is oriented to the Manhattan street grid while the tower is skewed to match Battery Park City.

Stuyvesant High School

Educational Edifice by Leepak, on Flickr

This is the most prestigious public high school in Manhattan-- and maybe in the country. Founded in 1904 as a vocational school for boys, it moved to 15th Street in 1907, where it remained for 89 years. It began admitting female students in 1969. It moved to this new 10-story facility in 1992. Stuyvesant High School by unforth, on Flickr

Its students have included four Nobel laureates; writers like Lewis Mumford, Richard H. Price and Hubert Selby; musicians like Thelonious Monk and Steely Dan's Walter Becker; actors including James Cagney, George Raft, Tim Robbins and Lucy Liu, along with classic filmmaker Joseph L. Mankiewicz. Stuyvesant High School by philmaxwell, on Flickr

The political figures who come out of Stuy are a surprisingly right-leaning lot, including Dick Morris, Roy Innis, Thomas Sowell, Samuel P. Huntington, Ron Silver and Albert Shanker--though Obama adviser David Axelrod and Manhattan Rep. Jerry Nadler are graduates too.

The school was the setting of the teen cyberthriller Hackers, as well as the student politics documentary Frontrunners. NYC - TriBeCa: TriBeCa Bridge by wallyg, on Flickr

The Tribeca Bridge was built in 1992 to allow Stuyvesant students to cross over busy West Street.


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South:

The Independence School

170 (corner): P.S. 234, a creative school design by Richard Dattner, completed 1988. The kids here had to flee the September 11 attacks up the West Side Highway; there was much concern among parents that the school was reopened before it was fully decontaminated.


























The sculpture on the northeast corner of the block is called "Dreaming of Faraway Places."

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Borough of Manhattan Community College

CUNY - Borough Of Manhattan Community College by Leepak, on Flickr

199 (corner): A business-oriented college that opened in Midtown in 1964. It moved to this facility in 1983; the campus has been compared in size to the Empire State Building lying on its side. Almost 20,000 students are pursuing degrees here, while 10,000 more are in continuing education programs.

Affiliated with the campus is the Tribeca Performing Arts Center, established in 1983 and formerly known as The Triplex.

Washington Market Park

The joy of summer by t_a_i_s, on Flickr

This green space, commem-orating what was once New York's main produce market (now relocated to Hunts Point), is ''one of the city's best small parks''--AIA Guide.


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South:

Corner (295 Greenwich St): Greenwich Court II, a rounded red-brick apartment building completed in 1988--Gruzen Samton Steinglass, designers. Actress Sonia Braga has lived here.

160: Chambers Street Wines. FDNY Engine Co. 29 was in this building from 1897 until it was disbanded in 1947.

156: Taylor's

154: Tribeca Hardware

150: Manhattan Books is in a building with Corinthian pillars.

144: Was Burritoville, decent local chain that suddenly closed in 2008.

CHAMBERS STREET STATION (IRT):
1/9 to World Trade Center
2/3 to Park Place

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Corner (303 Greenwich St): Dalton on Greenwich, an 11-story apartment building from 1987 designed by Beyer Blinder Belle.




157: This building houses entertainment companies like Lions Gate and Artisan films, as well as the Lower Eastside Service Center.

147: Cafe Amore Restaurant

145: Naga Yoga

143: Was Mao-Mao Famous Sichuan Food







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South:

CHAMBERS STREET STATION (IRT):
1/9 to Franklin Street
2/3 to 14th Street

132: Craig's Shoes

126: Mudville 9 Saloon--since 1977

124: Ecco Italian Saloon




118: China Red Restaurant

116: Uptown Juice Bar

112: Omjavi Restaurant Drinkers Wanted by Vidiot, on Flickr

110: The Patriot, bar

108 (corner): Imperial Coffee House; City Hall Wines and Spirits

CHAMBERS STREET STATION (IND): Chambers Street Station by jothenomad, on Flickr -->
A/C to Fulton Street

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125 (corner): Cosmopolitan Hotel is a relatively affordable Manhattan lodging choice. Edward McWilliams, former Jersey City police chief and for 20 years a house detective at the Astor House hotel, killed himself here in 1900. Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory is on the ground floor.

119: Ruby's Book Sale

115: The DC 37 Health Center, providing healthcare to members of the largest municipal workers' union, resembles a Roman temple.

Cary Building

NYC - TriBeCa: Cary Building by wallyg, on Flickr

105-107 (corner): A cast-iron landmark from 1857, designed by John Kellum, primary architect of the Tweed Courthouse. The north and south facades are lovely, but the east wall, exposed by the widening of Church Street in the 1920s for subway construction, looks pretty awful. NYC - TriBeCa: Cary Building by wallyg, on Flickr

Here from 2002-08 were the offices of the latter-day New York Sun, an attempt to launch another right-wing daily paper in a progressive town that already had the New York Post and the Wall Street Journal. Its failure was foreordained.


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South:

CHAMBERS STREET STATION (IND):
A/C to Canal Street

Night Shot in FiDi by p0wn, on Flickr

96: Sophie's, Cuban

94: Shankar Indian Cuisine (formerly Kiran)

88: Was Candy World

Manhattan Project HQ

Manhattan Project Building by edenpictures, on Flickr

Corner (270 Broadway): In 1848, Chemical Bank built its headquarters here, replacing it in 1907 with another building. That in turn was torn down for this 28-story building, put up in 1930, designed by E.H. Faile & Co. (which ought to be embarrassed to put up a building that looks like this across from a building like Broadway Chambers). It was during World War II that this building won its claim to fame, serving as the headquarters of the Manhattan Project to develop the atomic bomb. (It was part of the regional office of the Army Corps of Engineers, which apparently is in charge of doomsday weapons as well as flood control.) In 1946 it was sold to the state of New York and became the Levitt Building, housing state legislative offices.

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Corner (165 Church): Corner Jewelry

97: Dee & Dee clothing is in a nice Greek Revival building.

95: Ralph's Discount City, est. 1963

89: Coalition for the Homeless

77: New York Super Fashion, in a cast-iron building NYC - Civic Center - Broadway Chambers Building by wallyg, on Flickr

Corner (277 Broadway): Broadway Chambers Building, Renaissance Revival from the Woolworth Tower's Cass Gilbert (1900). Nedick's used to have a hot dog stand on the corner. Built on the site of Irving House, which Magyar patriot Lajos Kossuth used as a base in December 1851.

In 1841, printer Sam Adams went to this corner to collect a $50 debt from John Colt, brother of revolver inventor Samuel Colt. Broadway Chambers Building II by edenpictures, on Flickr Colt killed Adams--with a hammer, not a revolver--and tried to ship the body to New Orleans. He was caught and convicted; on the day scheduled for his execution, he married his fiancee in prison, then committed suicide in his cell by stabbing himself in the chest.


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City Hall Park

Tweed Courthouse and City Hall by Vidiot, on Flickr

This was originally set aside in 1686 by the Dutch colonial government as The Commons, a pasture adjacent to the Collect Pond where townsfolk could take their livestock to eat and drink. It soon became the city's main park, serving as a gathering place for celebrations--and protests. NYC - Civic Center: Nathan Hale City Hall Park - Liberty Flag Pole marker by wallyg, on Flickr

On August 11, 1766, New Yorkers angry that their Liberty Pole protest in the park had been taken down, threw bricks at British soldiers here, who retaliated with bayonets--resulting in the first (non-fatal) bloodshed of the Revolutionary era. General George Washington had the Declaration of Independence read here on July 9, 1776. jeannie's night view by mudpig, on Flickr

In 1826, African-Americans rioted here against slave-catchers pursuing escapees from the South. Another riot here in 1837 opposed the price of flour rising from $6 to $15 a barrel. Blacks were attacked here during the Draft Riots of 1863.

When Albany in 1857 replaced the corrupt Municipal Police with a new organization known as the Metropolitan Police, the two forces clashed here in a melee that left one officer permanently crippled. Closer to the present, police rioted here in September 1992 against Mayor David Dinkins' Civilian Complaint Review Board proposals.

When author Jack London was homeless for a time, he spent his nights in City Hall Park-- a time that inspired his novel The People of the Abyss.


















Tweed Courthouse

Historic New York County 'Tweed' Courthouse by joseph a, on Flickr

52: Built between 1861 and 1871, this former Criminal Courts Building was supposed to cost $250,000; it ended up costing as much as $14 million, with much of the difference being pocketed by William ''Boss'' Tweed and his Tammany Hall cronies. Tweed Courthouse (NYC Dept of Education) by Peter Comitini, on Flickr This graft, excessive even for those days, helped land Tweed in jail, but it is a remarkably beautiful building.

This site was earlier the New York Institution, the city's almshouse; the residents were transferred to Bellevue in 1816, after which the building served to house And as we all walked together to secure our civil rights, we pondered the lovely autumnal scenery between City Hall and the Tweed Courthouse. by epicharmus, on Flickr the New-York Historical Society, the Society Library, the American Academy of Fine Arts and the Bank for Savings.














Corner: In 1818, The Rotunda was built here, an art gallery backed by Aaron Burr that featured under its central dome a panoramic painting of the Garden of Versailles (which can now be seen in the Metropolitan Museum of Art). The enterprise was a commercial failure, and the temple-like building housed city government offices until it was destroyed in 1870.

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Sun Building

Broadway & Chambers by Peter Comitini, on Flickr

Corner (274 Broadway): New York State Office Building, which houses the city's Buildings department, was built by A.T. Stewart in 1846 for the the world's first true department store, known as the Marble Palace. The building's marble-clad Italianate design inspired hundreds of other commercial buildings.

Later used (1919-50) as the offices of the New York Sun, a newspaper best remembered for its 1897 "Yes, Virginia" editorial and for the 1835 Great Moon Hoax. The Sun by 917press, on Flickr It was Sun editor John B. Bogart who said, in 1882, "When a dog bites a man that is not news, but when a man bites a dog that is news."

The paper's clocks, with the motto "The Sun--It Shines for All," are still on the building's corners.

Built on site of the Washington Hotel (1812), which served as the Federalist Party HQ.

49 (corner): This building, topped with eagles and globes, was the Emigrant Industrial Savings Bank (1908). It now houses city offices, including the Board of Correction, the Council on Environment, the Department of Investigation and the New York City Rent Guidelines Board.

39-41: The address of Palmo's Opera House, which opened in 1844 to bring Italian opera to New York; it closed two years later, reopening as Burton's Chamber Street Theater, whose offerings included "artist model shows" that featured nearly nude men and women. Burton's was the first theater in the city to sell tickets for particular seats.


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Surrogate's Courthouse

Court house by Martin Haesemeyer, on Flickr

31 (block): This Beaux Arts masterpiece, designed by John R. Thomas, was built between 1899 and 1907 at a cost of more than $7 million. It was originally known as the Hall of Records, but it's always been home to the Surrogate's Court, which handles wills, estates and adoptions. NYC - Surrogate's Court - Philosophy by wallyg, on Flickr

Flanking the entrance are Philip Martiny's allegorical figures representing Law and Philosophy. Justice and Authority used to be represented on the Centre Street side, but they were removed to the New York County Courthouse when that roadway was widened in 1961.


Surrogate's Court Building (1899-1907) by chrisinphilly5448, on Flickr

The facade also features Martiny's statues of historical figures connected with New York and New Amsterdam, many of them now obscure: From left, they are David Pietersen de Vries, Caleb Heathcote, DeWitt Clinton, Abram S. Hewitt, Philip Hone, Peter Stuyvesant, Cadwallader D. Colden and James Duane. Lobby, Surrogates Court, Manhattan, New York, 13 Feb. 2008 by PhillipC, on Flickr

The gorgeous interior was inspired by the Paris Opera House, whose influence can also be seen on Grand Central Terminal.

This was where Nicole Kidman worked in Batman Forever, Keanu Reeves did some lawyering in Devil's Advocate and Gary Oldman met his fate in Romeo Is Bleeding.

Built in 1799 on this site was the Manhattan Company Reservoir, the holding tank for Aaron Burr's water company, designed in an Egyptian style with a statue of Aquarius the water-bearer. Burr had started the company because it was easier for an existing company to go into banking than to get a new bank chartered; the bank that he got going through this gambit eventually put the "Manhattan" in Chase Manhattan. Alexander Hamilton's objections to this roundabout creation of a competitor to Hamilton's Bank Of New York sparked a feud that eventually culminated in the fatal Burr/Hamilton duel of 1804.


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Municipal Building

Park Row building by kevin813, on Flickr

New York City launched an architectural competition in 1907 to build an administrative center for the newly consolidated five buroughs. The winning design, by McKim, Mead & White, mixed Imperial Roman and Renaissance motifs; it was the firm's first skyscraper.


NYC - Civic Center - Municipal Building by wallyg, on Flickr

The distinctive tower rising above the building's U-shaped base is topped by Adolph Weinman's 20-foot-tall copper-clad statue of Civic Fame--the largest statue in New York after Liberty. Allegorical friezes representing Civic Duty and Civic Pride adorn the western facade. Stalin was a fan of the building and had Moscow University's main building patterned after it. Park Row building by kevin813, on Flickr

With a million square foot of space, the building houses most of the Mayor's Office, as well as those of the Manhattan Borough President, the Public Advocate, the Comptroller and the Landmarks Preservation Commission. It's where minimalists and couples in a hurry go to get married--14,000 times a year. It's also the home of WNYC, New York's public radio station since 1922--now broadcast from the tower.







What am I missing on Chambers Street? Write to Jim Naureckas and tell him about it.

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