New York Songlines: 8th Avenue

W 59th | W 58th | W 57th | W 56th | W 55th | W 54th | W 53rd | W 52nd | W 51st | W 50th | W 49th | W 48th | W 47th | W 46th | W 45th | W 44th | W 43rd | W 42nd | W 41st | W 40th | W 39th | W 38th | W 37th | W 36th | W 35th | W 34th | W 33rd | W 31st | W 30th |
W 29th | W 28th | W 27th | W 26th | W. 25th | W 24th | W 23rd | W 22nd | W 21st | W 20th |
W 19th | W 18th | W 17th | W 16th | W 15th | W 14th |
Greenwich Ave | W 13th | W 4th/Horatio St | Jane St | W 12th | Bleecker St | Hudson St



Columbus Circle

A roundabout honoring one of history's greatest monsters. It's not that he should be held responsible for all of Europe's effects on a New World that he didn't even realize he had found; rather, he should be held responsible for what he did personally to the inhabitants of Hispaniola, whom he exploited and exterminated with an efficiency that would have made Eichmann proud. His statue, by Gaetano Russo and dedicated on the 400th anniversary of Columbus' first voyage in 1892, stands on a 70-foot pillar featuring representations of the Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria.

The circle got a major makeover in 2005 to make it more hospitable and accessible to pedestrians.


W <===     COLUMBUS CIRCLE     ===> E

West:

Time Warner Center

Block (10 Columbus Circle): This 2003 megastructure, a home for the media giant, was designed by David Childs of Skidmore, Owings & Merrill. The first major skyscraper built after September 11, it features twin towers-- with 55 stories, half of the World Trade Center's reach. The massive complex includes a hotel, the Mandarin Oriental, and a performance space for Jazz at Lincoln Center. Also some of the most expensive restaurants in New York City, including Masa ($300-a-plate sushi),

per se and V Steakhouse.

Built on the site of the New York Coliseum, Robert Moses' 1954 convention center (Leon and Lionel Levy, 1954), widely viewed as an eyesore--and as a white elephant after the Javits Center opened in 1986. Demolished 2000.

Earlier on the site was the Majestic Theatre, an opulent house built in 1903 that opened with a live musical production of The Wizard of OZ; renamed the Park in 1911, it saw the debut of Pygmalion as well as Minsky's burlesque show. William Randolph Hearst turned it into a cinema, the Cosmopolitan, in 1923; Florenz Ziegfield brought live theater back in 1925. After a few more name changes and switches between film, theater, vaudeville and ballet, it was the International when NBC used it as a TV studio from 1949 to 1954--starting with Sid Caesar's Your Show of Shows.

8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:

2 Columbus Circle

990 (block): In 1964, a 12-story concave tower designed by Edward Durell Stone was built here to house the Gallery of Modern Art, the collection of A & P heir Huntington Hartford. Known as the Lollipop Building for its distinctive ground-floor columns, it was noted for its almost windowless white marble facade, which attracted both ridicule and affection. After being owned by Fairleigh Dickinson University and Gulf + Western, the building became home to the city's Department of Cultural Affairs and the New York Convention and Visitors Bureau from 1980 until 1998. The city transferred the property to the Museum of Arts & Design, which embarked on a highly controversial redesign of the building. Despite vocal calls to preserve the building as a historically important example of Modernism, the Landmark Commission stubbornly refused to even hold hearings on the matter. The new look is set to be unveiled in 2008.

From 1874 until 1960, this was the site of the Pabst Grand Circle Hotel, a seven-story brownstone with a mansard roof. Actors Equity was founded there in 1913.








W <===     WEST 58TH STREET     ===> E

West:

987 (corner): Four Columbus Circle. Why the city allows developers to give their buildings addresses that make no sense is beyond me. This was the site of Reisenweber's Restaurant, noted as the site of Sophie Tucker's "Bohemian Night" in the 400 Room, and as the venue where the Original Dixieland Jass Band was discovered, leading to their recording the first jazz record in 1917.

977: There was a Horn & Hardart's Automat here where Martha Graham often had lunch with choreographer Louis Horst.

Corner (301 W 57th): 1 Central Park Place, another nonsensical name (the park is three blocks from here) for a 1988 luxury tower by David, Brody & Associates. Al Pacino and Gene Hackman have lived here.

8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:

Columbus Tower

Block: Also known as the Newsweek Building, for its most prominent tenant (since 1994), the first three stories of this 25-story building went up in 1921 as the Collonade Building, noted for its Ionic columns (William Welles Bosworth, architect). In 1926, Shreve & Lamb added 22 stories to the building, which became General Motors' East Coast headquarters; the building was known as the General Motors Building until 1968, when the company moved to 5th Avenue. The current owner decided to reclad the building in glass in 2008, an aesthetically dubious move. It's also being renamed, inanely, 3 Columbus Circle, despite not being on Columbus Circle.

W <===     WEST 57TH STREET     ===> E

West:

Hearst Magazine Building

Block (300 W 57th): The six-story base of this building, commissioned by William Randolph Hearst to house his magazine empire, was completed in 1928, a "sculptured extravaganza" designed by Joseph Urban. Plans to add a tower were halted by the Great Depression but were finally followed through in 2006, when 40 stories were added in a distinctive triangular grid design by Norman Foster. By preserving the original facade and adding a distinctive new form to the skyline, the building received wide acclaim, including being named the year's best new skyscraper by Emporis. It's now Hearst's world headquarters, housing such publications as Good Housekeeping and Cosmopolitan.

8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:

Corner (250 W 57th): The Fisk Building is a 26-story office building from 1921, designed by Carèrre & Hastings and Shreve, Lamb & Blake for the Fisk Tire and Rubber Company. It has its own entrance to the Columbus Circle subway station. Once a hub for auto industry offices, it now specializes in entertainment; David Bowie had his offices here in the 1980s, and it's currently home to RZO, which provides business services to a roster of rock stars like Bowie, the Rolling Stones, U2, Madonna, etc.

The Fisk Building where supervillain Wilson Fisk (aka The Kingpin) works seems to be an entirely different building--though it is somewhere in Midtown.


W <===     WEST 56TH STREET     ===> E

West:











8
T
H

A
V
E

East:











W <===     WEST 55TH STREET     ===> E

West:

919: The address of Stillman's Gym, where Sugar Ray Robinson did most of his professional training. The gym, originally intended to rehabilitate ex-cons, was in a converted union hall. Closed 1959.

911 (block): Westerly, a 19-story apartment building from 1964, designed by Herbert Fleischer Associates. Includes the Westerly Natural Market.

2
N
D

A
V
E

East:











W <===     WEST 54TH STREET     ===> E

West:











2
N
D

A
V
E

East:











W <===     WEST 53RD STREET     ===> E

West:











8
T
H

A
V
E

East:











W <===     WEST 52ND STREET     ===> E

West:

Howard Johnson Plaza

851 (block): Political activist Angela Davis was arrested here on October 13, 1970, after fleeing charges of murder and kidnapping two months earlier. She was acquitted on all counts in 1972.




8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

Corner (260 W 52nd): The Ellington seems to be both a hotel and an apartment building.









W <===     WEST 51ST STREET     ===> E

West:

839: The Tivoli theater opened here in 1921, becoming the gay porn house Adonis in the 1970s--torn down in 1990 because it was thought to be discouraging rentals in Worldwide Plaza.

833: Green Farm Grocery

Corner: Longacre House, a 1998 apartment building that recalls Times Square's old name. It was built by developer Harry Macklowe and designed (like the Gershwin across the intersection) by Peter Claman.

8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

834 (corner): Capital Apartments, built 1925







832: Silvers Hardware

830 (corner): Mario Ingrami and William S. Fryer designed this modernist building in 1985.

W <===     WEST 50TH STREET     ===> E

West:

829 (corner): Here were the offices of the New York Morning Herald, where Bat Masterson, once a famed Western gunslinger, worked as a sportswriter. He died at his desk here on October 26, 1921.

World Wide Plaza

825 (block): This block-filling project went up in 1989, designed by Skidmore, Owings and Merrill-- it resembles the RCA Building on steroids. It was built on the site of the third Madison Square Garden, here from 1925 to 1966, designed by Thomas Lamb. The New York Rangers were established here in 1926, and the Knicks in 1946. The first Golden Gloves amateur boxing championship was held here March 28, 1927. A celebration for Adolf Hitler here on February 20, 1939, turned out 28,000 Nazi sympathizers. John F. Kennedy held his 45th birthday party here on May 19, 1962, with Marilyn Monroe singing him a very special ''Happy Birthday.''

8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:

Corner: Gershwin Apartments are a 40-story apartment development built in 1998, named for the songwriting brothers.




















W <===     WEST 49TH STREET     ===> E

West:

813: Was Sorrentino Restaurant

811: Fu Ying Chinese

809: Int'l Smoker Shop

809: Olympic Coffee Shop

797: Peter Ottley Institute

793: Blarney Stone Bar

8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

806: Metro Diner

790: Days Hotel & Parking








W <===     WEST 48TH STREET     ===> E

West:

789: Supreme Coffee Shop

787: Ray's Famous Pizza

785: Garden Hardware

783: Latitude, multi-level bar/lounge, was Michael's Place Restaurant

781: Gotham City IV, one of Times Square's last live peepshows; opened 2005. Was City Knickerbocker Lighting.

777: Was Hollywood Cinema, X-rated theater

771 (corner): Was B. Smith's, soul-food showcase for the "black Martha Stewart," opened 1987; in 2000, became Jack Rose, bar named for a Westies gangster and a leading venue for swing dancing. Now one of those places for tourists who want to eat someplace they could eat at at home.

8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:

782 (corner): Engine 54/Ladder 4 (FDNY) is housed in a 1974 "muted brown brick cubist exercise'' (AIA Guide). At this address in 1909 was found the body of Elsie Sigel, granddaughter of a Civil War hero, apparently killed by her lover, Chinese immigrant Leon Ling. The murder set off a wave of anti-Chinese hysteria.


776-780: A group of buildings built in 1897, torn down a little more than a hundred years later.

772: Described by Christopher Gray in 1999 as a "fantastically unchanged wooden storefront," this 1899 building was subsequently demolished.

770 (corner): Art Paradise Cards/Posters was in an 1888 brownstone, also since demolished.

W <===     WEST 47TH STREET     ===> E

West:

767 (corner): New Acropolis Coffee is in an 1873 tenement designed by William H. Cauvet --called by Christopher Gray "a nice example of Eastlake-style incised decoration."

743: Scruffy Duffy's Bar

741: Caravan Afghan Restaurant, opened 1988

739: Le Rendez-Vous Cafe, bar described as a "cheesefest" by TONY. Was Nilupul Video XXX, porn store named for the blue water lily, the national flower of Sri Lanka.

737: Was Lady's Anne Saloon/Bar

733 (corner): Pleasure Palace Videos is in an 1881 Victorian building designed for the Astor real estate empire by Thomas Stent.

8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:

760 (corner): LaCocina Mexican Restaurant













750: McHale's Bar was the Gaiety Cafe in the 1950s; the stainless steel exterior dates back to 1941.

W <===     WEST 46TH STREET     ===> E

West:

Corner: Brownstone flats built by the Astors in 1867, designed by Frederick Barus; a mansard roof and tower were added in 1997 by Richard Vitto.




731: Farat Pizza



727: Big Apple Gourmet Deli

725: Century Pawnbrokers


721: MASH Army/Navy

719: Kodama Japanese Restaurant

717: Lord Camelot Coffee is in the Camelot, 1960s apartment building. (The musical opened in December 1960.)

8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:

740: Was Monte Tecla Bar

738: Euro Diner was Capri Adult Cinema, 1969-96. Had a largely gay clientele despite showing straight porn, as described in Samuel Delany's Times Square Red, Times Square Blue. Building from 1920.

732: Playwright Tavern Act II was Eros Theatre, gay pornhouse 1969-96.

730: Was Coqtales Bar

728: Daniela’s Gourmet Trattoria was Venus Theater, opened as Eros 2 in 1970 and closed in 1996. The three porn houses on this block were all started by adult impressario Chelly Wilson, producer of such films as Dominatrix Without Mercy and Come Ride the Wild Pink Horse.

726: Smilers

Corner (269 W 45th): Frankie & Johnnie's Steakhouse opened here as a speakeasy in 1926; Babe Ruth and Al Jolson are said to have been regulars.

W <===     WEST 45TH STREET     ===> E

West:

715: Beefsteak Charlie's

713: Joe Franklin's Memory Lane

711: Silver & Sons Hardware

709: Ray's Pizza

703-705: Hotel/Restaurant/Bartenders Union

701: Smith's Bar & Restaurant opened in 1954 and hasn't changed much.

8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

Milford Plaza Hotel

700 (block): Opened in 1929 as the Lincoln Hotel. Houses the Celebrity Deli and Garvey's Irish Pub.






W <===     WEST 44TH STREET     ===> E

West:

Corner: Was the Globe Hotel--now demolished

Playpen

693: A 1916 Beaux Arts building housed the Ideal Theater, which later became the X-rated Cameo (becoming the gay-oriented Adonis after 1990), and then was one of Times Square's last remaining live peep shows--closed in 2007, demolished 2008.

691: Was Adult Fantasy

689: Club 44

687: Gotham City, maintaining the live peepshow tradition; was O'Donnell's Bar.

681 (corner): A 1927 Art Deco Manufacturers Hanover Bank branch designed by sculptor Rene Chambellan (with architects Dennison & Hirons) now houses the Second Stage Theater, in a space designed by Rem Koolhaas and Richard Gluckman.

8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:



694-696: Robert Emmett's Bar & Restaurant. Emmett was an Irish rebel hanged by the British in 1803, famous for his "Let no man write my epitaph" speech.

692: Souper Dog; Wrapsody

690: Was Covenant House, scandal-plagued outreach center for homeless kids; now Harlem Spirituals/New York Visions.

688: Red Ruby Chinese Restaurant

686: Daily Soup



Corner (255 W 43rd): The Times Square Hotel, now an SRO; Lee Harvey Oswald and his new wife Marina Oswald stayed here on June 13, 1962, the night after Oswald returned from his stay in Russia.

W <===     WEST 43RD STREET     ===> E

West:




675: Was Big Top Lounge

Show World Center-Theatre

669: Opened in 1977, this three-level peep show emporium is now one of the few remaining adult businesses in the Times Square district.







8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:

Westin New York at Times Square

Corner (270 W 43rd): 2001 hotel designed by Arquitectonica is a 45-story prism split by a distinctive glowing arc.

674: Blarney Stone Bar

672: Show Palace Adult Theater

E Walk

Corner (259 W 42nd): A strip of glitzy development for the new Times Square. On the corner is Chevy's, an elaborate outlet of the Mexican chain. The first peep shows were installed in a magazine store at this address in 1966.

W <===     WEST 42ND STREET     ===> E

West:

Port Authority Bus Terminal

The world's largest bus terminal was built in 1950 (expansions in 1963 and 1980) by the same folks who brought us the World Trade towers. There are plans to add a high-rise office tower addition.

Rosanna Arquette leaves her luggage (and her identity) here in Desperately Seeking Susan; the last scene in Bad Lieutenant was set here. It's also the site of George Rhoads' kinetic sculpture 42nd Street Ballroom (a Rube Goldberg-like apparatus involving billiard balls).

8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

The New York Times Building

620 (block): The paper that gave Times Square its name moved to this new 52-story tower in 2007; it had been at its last home on 43rd Street since 1913. The design by Renzo Piano features a ceramic-tube curtain wall that is supposed to change color with shifting light--"all the colors of the rainbow, from grey to brown," Gawker snarked.





W <===     WEST 41ST STREET     ===> E

On August 15, 1910, Arthur Harris fatally stabbed Robert Thorpe at this intersection for accosting his wife. Harris was black and Thorpe, who was white, turned out to be a plain-clothes cop; the incident sparked anti-black riots throughout the Tenderloin district.

West:

Port Authority Bus Terminal

The south wing of the bus station. A statue of Jackie Gleason as bus driver Ralph Kramden can be found outside--donated by TVland.





8
T
H

A
V
E

East:











W <===     WEST 40TH STREET     ===> E

West:

Corner: 300 DVD, located downstairs here, is said to have the best porn bargains in the city.







8
T
H

A
V
E

East:












W <===             WEST 39TH STREET             ===> E

West:











8
T
H

A
V
E

East:












W <===             WEST 38TH STREET             ===> E

West:

557 (corner): This 1903 Art Noveau building was designed by Emery Roth, architect of the San Remo (whose firm later designed the World Trade Center). It was at one point an actor's hotel.

555: Offices of NBM (Nantier Beall Minoustchine), the U.S.'s first publisher of graphic novels, including the political satire of Ted Rall, the science fiction art of Luis Royo and erotica by the likes of Milo Manara, Kevin Taylor and Quinn.

543: Wakamba. Undercover police officers accosted Patrick Dorismond in front of this nightclub to ask him for drugs, starting an altercation that resulted in Dorismond's death. (See below.)

Corner: At this corner, Patrick Dorismond was killed by Detective Anthony Vasquez. Mayor Rudolph Giuliani defended the slaying by pointing to a fight Dorismond was in when he was 13 years old.

8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:

























W <===             WEST 37TH STREET             ===> E

West:

535 (corner): Gray's Papaya; you won't find a better bargain in New York than the classic hot dogs here--and you can wash them down with a variety of foamy tropical beverages.






8
T
H

A
V
E

East:












W <===             WEST 36TH STREET             ===> E

West:






505: This was the address of progressive radio station WBAI until it moved to Wall Street in 1998. The radio show CounterSpin got its start here.

8
T
H

A
V
E

East:






500 (corner): The West Side High School here was profiled in the book On the Outside Looking In-- but it's since moved to 102nd street.


W <===             WEST 35TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Hotel New Yorker

481: When built in 1930, this Art Deco hotel was the largest in New York, with 2,500 rooms, 150 launderers, 92 telephone operators, 42 barber chairs, 35 master cooks, 20 manicurists, 10 dining salons, five restaurants and the nation's largest private power plant.

It was the headquarters for Leo Durocher's Brooklyn Dodgers during the 1941 World Series, and Joe DiMaggio's home-game home. Big bands led by the likes of Benny Goodman, Woody Herman and the Dorsey Brothers played here. Electrical genius Nikola Tesla died in his room here January 7, 1943.

After decades of decline, it was bought by the Rev. Sun Myung Moon's Unification Church in 1976, and served as World Universal Church. In 1994, the Church reopened part of the building as a Ramada Inn franchise, under the old name.

Woody Allen filmed scenes for Radio Days and Bullets Over Broadway in the ballroom here.

At the corner is the hotel's Tick Tock Cafe.

8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:



























W <===             WEST 34TH STREET             ===> E

The boundary of Hell's Kitchen and Chelsea

West:

461-479: Originally the Printing Crafts Building, now known as 5 Penn Plaza, this building houses the New York bureaus of CNN and CNNfn. There's an Irish pub/restaurant here called Tir na Nog-- "Land of Youth" in Irish--which is the name of the Celtic land of the dead. Also a branch of the theater district's Stage Door Restaurant.



8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

Block: The complex on this block is known as 1 Penn Plaza. Includes the Beema Grill.









W <===             WEST 33RD STREET             ===> E

West:

General Post Office

This 1913 building, New York's main post office, was designed by Charles McKim of McKim, Mead and White to complement the classical design of the old Pennsylvania Station, now destroyed. Noted for its collonade of 20 53-foot-high Corinthian columns which support the famous inscription, “Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds.” (This is not the Post Office's official motto, but its placement here-- based on Herodotus' description of Persian couriers--has made it an unofficial standard.) The building--officially renamed the James A. Farley Building, after FDR's postmaster, a New York native-- also bears the names of noted figures in the history of mail; note the inclusion of Franz Von Taxis, who might be considered the villain of The Crying of Lot 49.

The building is scheduled to be transformed into a new rail terminal to replace the warren-like Penn Station under Madison Square Garden. The retrofitted post office building is to be renamed Moynihan Station, commemorating Sen. Daniel Patrick Moynihan, who led the push for the change.





















8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:

Madison Square Garden

Eight blocks from Madison Square, where the original version was located, this 20,000-seat arena, the home of the New York Knicks, Rangers and Liberty, is the fourth building and the third location to bear the name. Joe Frazier defeated Mohammed Ali here March 8, 1971; Nadia Comaneci scored a perfect 10 here March 28, 1978.

Jimi Hendrix, Elvis Presley, Frank Sinatra, Bruce Springsteen, Madonna and Pope John Paul II have all performed here; the Grateful Dead played here 52 times, a record broken by Elton John in 2001. John Lennon's last performance was here, as a surprise guest at an Elton John concert, in 1974. The Democratic conventions of 1976, 1980 and 1992 were held here--as will the 2004 Republican convention. Godzilla made its nest here in the 1998 U.S. version.

Many people think of Madison Square Garden as one of New York City's greatest architectural crimes-- because it was built by tearing down the old Pennsylvania Station, a glorious 1910 structure modeled on the Roman Baths of Caracalla, considered to be architect Charles McKim's greatest masterpiece. (Ironically, McKim partner Stanford White's greatest work was the second Madison Square Garden, demolished in 1925.) Protests by architects and preservationists did not prevent the station's 1963 destruction--though the loss did help spark landmark laws to protect other treasures. Statues of eagles from the station can be seen on the east side of the Garden.

In the basement of the Garden is the new Penn Station, one of Manhattan's two major rail terminals--along with a 48-lane bowling alley. Architect Louis I. Kahn died of a heart attack at the station in 1974--his unidentified body remaining in the morgue for several days.

The Garden's office tower is the location of Disney/ABC radio flagship WABC--this is where Rush Limbaugh and Sean Hannity, among other right-wing broadcasters, do their shows. WPLJ music radio is based here too.


W <===             WEST 31ST STREET             ===> E

West:

411: Pizza Suprema; Dinersty Restaurant (Chinese)

407: Tempest Bar; formerly Garden Tavern

405: D'Aiuto's, birthplace of Baby Watson Cheesecake--now selling the homemade stuff as New York New York Cheesecake. Founded 1924.

403 (corner): Manhattan Inn is no beauty contestant, but it's certainly a bargain place to stay in Manhattan.

8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

Corner: Charley O's Skybox Grill and Bar

412: DVD Explosion

410: Blarney Stone, chain of Irish dives

408: Golden Krust Patties, Jamaican fastfood chain, is in the Garden Terrace building.



402: Molly Wee Pub, spruced-up Irish joint


W <===             WEST 30TH STREET             ===> E

West:


393: Deno's Party House USA, aka Bikini Bar. Ultra-sketchy Russian joint. Used to be 8th Avenue Garden.

391: Home on 8th (formerly Uncle Chan Restaurant) is a largely vegetarian Chinese--the people I work with go here once a week, and it's quite a hike. Has interesting art and an extensive collection of Bruce Lee action figures.

389: Walters Bar

383 (corner): 8th Avenue Market is in the building once known as Lamartine Hall, headquarters of the Irish Protestant group the Orangemen, and the starting point for a parade that ended up as a massacre on July 12, 1871.

8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

400 (corner): Human Resources Administration; includes Adult Services Agency, Protective Services for Adults


390: Vesto was CJ's Knockouts Sports Bar & Grill





382 (corner): Was Estoril Sol Restaurant, Italian/Portuguese


W <===             WEST 29TH STREET             ===> E

West:

Penn South Houses

This huge project was built in 1962 as a middle-income housing co-op for garment workers.



















Corner: William "Big Bill" Devery, reputedly "the most corrupt man to ever wear the uniform of the New York City Police Department," was chief of police from 1898-1902. He would stand every night at this corner--known as "The Pump"--to accept payoffs and information from gamblers, brothel owners and other Tenderloin entrepreneurs.

8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:

378 (corner): Italian Deli, "Fancy Food to Go"

376: Salumeria Biellese Charcuterie Francaise, French sausage since 1925.

374: AM + AL Gourmet Deli was Alexander the Great Gourmet Deli

372: Was Penn Place bar

370: Express Chinese/Vietnamese Food. Upstairs is the Vigilant Hotel; it looks like you'd have to be vigilant.

362-368 (corner): The Onyx Chelsea replaced a building that served as a business office for William "Big Bill" Devery (see opposite corner), and was his campaign headquarters when he ran for mayor in 1903. After he lost, he bought a Baltimore baseball team, moved them to New York and renamed them the New York Yankees.

Businesses that were in the old building included Chelsea 99 Cents or Less (368), Climateight, noted for its guest bartender happy hour (366), Optimo Candy Store (364) and Krour Thai (362).


<===             WEST 28TH STREET             ===>

Ax-wielding prohibitionist Carry Nation was arrested here on September 1, 1901, for obstructing traffic as she denounced the sins of The Tenderloin.

West:

Penn South Houses

This huge project was built in 1962 as a middle-income housing co-op for garment workers.





8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

Fashion Institute of Technology

A college designed to serve the academic needs of the Garment District. This end is the David Dubinsky Student Center, built in 1977 and named for the ILGWU leader who helped found the American Labor Party and New York's Liberal Party.



<===             WEST 27TH STREET             ===>

West:

341: Midtown Tennis--in inflatable domes above supermarket.



Underneath the store is the Maverick Theater, home to the Upright Citizens Brigade Theater, a coalition of improv groups that got kicked out of its old home, a former strip club on West 22nd, because it was a firetrap. UCBT is one of the cultural gems of New York City--highly recommended.

8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

338 (corner): Utopia Diner

336: Unicorn DVD, gay porn shop.

334: Brown Cup, good coffee; Kofoo Korean Rice Bar

330: China Star, takeout

322 (corner): This building--once the Pennsylvania Exchange Bank--houses offices of Amnesty International, Bacon's clipping service, the Chakrasambara Buddhist Center and the Rotary Club of New York.


<===             WEST 26TH STREET             ===>

West:

Penn South Houses











8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

320 (corner): Daniella; Zagat says this Italian has some of the best food in Chelsea.

306: The Medicine Shoppe

304: Luigi's Pizza

302: In 1871, at the time of the Orangemen massacre, was National Baking Company.

300 (corner): Kyung's Fruit & Grocery was Utah House hotel.


<===             WEST 25TH STREET             ===>

On July 12, 1871, in the "Slaughter on Eighth Avenue," as many as 70 people were killed between 25th and 23rd streets when Irish Catholic snipers attacked an Orange Societies Parade guarded by 3,000 police and militia soldiers.

West:

Penn South Houses
















8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:

294 (corner): In 1951, this nail joint was The Balkan, a Yugoslavian restaurant.

292: In 1871, this was Appel's Hotel. Now a dry cleaner.

290: Was the 8th Avenue Mission; more recently Rome, a gay bar; now The Biltmore Room, a restaurant whose marble floor and bronze doors come from the original Biltmore Hotel.

288: Hong Kong Noodle. I may owe my job to this Chinese restaurant; after a long search process, I was finally interviewed and taken out to dinner here, where one of the interviewers got a fortune cookie that read, "Stop looking forever, happiness is right beside you."


<===             WEST 24TH STREET             ===>

In 1901, the police officer who arrested prohibitionist Carry Nation four blocks to the north released her here after being threatened by an angry mob that was enjoying her denunciations of their lifestyle.

West:

Penn South Houses

Corner: Former site of Grand Opera-House; built in 1868 as Pike's Opera House, bought soon after by financiers Jay Gould and Jim Fisk, partly as a showcase for Fisk's mistress, Josie Mansfield, partly as offices for Gould and Fisk's Erie Railway. During 1869 "Black Friday" panic--caused by Fisk and Gould's attempts to corner gold--Fisk hid out in Opera-House vaults. Fisk was shot in 1872 by Edward Stokes, a rival for Mansfield's affections; Fisk's funeral was held here. George M. Cohan produced plays here; Fred Astaire practiced dancing. Converted to cinema 1917; demolished 1960.

8
T
H

A
V
E

East:










270: John Q. Aymar Building





<===             WEST 23RD STREET             ===>

West:

Corner (300 W 23rd): This 1928 Art Deco building, by architect Emery Roth, was supposed to be a hotel, but the project went bankrupt. Restored with its original deco fixtures.

253: Fresco Tortilla Grill, a hole-in-the-wall that spawned many imitators

The Onion

245 (corner): This building houses the headquarters of America's Finest News Source, which moved to New York from Madison, Wisconsin in 2001.

8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

254: SGS Donuts--recommended by the New York Times.

240: Royal Siam








<===             WEST 22ND STREET             ===>

West:














219 (corner): Was Bendix Diner, a Thai-inflected neo-truck stop

8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

232: View Bar; the "view" is a mural behind a window. Formerly Break.

228-230: Romanza apartments are the home of Big Cup, a Chelsea institution where the buff meet for java.

224-226: Brunsonia apartments

222: Village Florist

218 (corner): Bright Food Shop; the name goes back to 1938, and the space was a restaurant as far back as 1907. But it's been updated as an Asian/Latin neo-diner.


<===             WEST 21ST STREET             ===>

West:

209: Chelsea Golden Wok

201: The Dish

199: Mr. D





8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

212 (corner): Rawhide, a landmark leather bar.





202: Intermezzo

200: Cuba Cafe, formerly Cuba Libra

198 (corner): Rainbows and Triangles, gay kitsch.


<===             WEST 20TH STREET             ===>

West:











8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

196: Tazza Restaurant and Bar

188: Havana Chelsea Luncheonette; old-time diner is "the cutest cheap restaurant on the Chelsea strip"--Robert Sietsema.

184: La Belle Vie

182: The Rocking Horse (Mexican)

178 (corner): Better Burger, health-oriented fast food.


<===             WEST 19TH STREET             ===>

West:

Joyce Theatre

175 (corner): Built in 1942 as the Elgin cinema, converted to one of NYC's premier dance spaces. Named not for James Joyce, but for the developer's daughter. The renovation helped spark a return of arts and restaurants to Eighth Avenue.

169: The Hideaway Room at Helen's; cabaret/restaurant, formerly Judy's (which moved here from the Theater District).

167: ARCA Antiques Cafe

165: Vox; Cafe Inferno

8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:

176 (corner): Nisos (Greek)

174: Galaxy Cafe II


166: La Chinita Linda Restaurant, unpretentious Chino-Latino










<===             WEST 18TH STREET             ===>

West:

159: Eighteenth and Eighth Restaurant

157: In the early 1990s was The Attic, "a sex club that had no limits"--Chelsea: A Gay History.

155: Amin Indian Cuisine

151: Flight 151, aviation-themed burger joint

149: Food Bar: "sleek, perfectly lit" with an "uber-attractive staff"--Shecky's.

147: Bang Bang Men of Chelsea, cruisewear

8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

160 (corner): The Viceroy

158: Gascogne

152: Mardana for Men, slutwear for guys.

150: Blue Moon Mexican Cafe used to be the Seventeenth Street Saloon, a gay leather bar.

148: Cola's



142: Details


<===             WEST 17TH STREET             ===>

West:


139: Paradise Cafe & Muffins CO

135: Chelsea Grill; has year-round garden

133: Handmade Cigars

131: The Bistro at Candy Bar; was the Chelsea Transfer, a early 1980s gay bar that was ahead of the neighborhood's transformation.

129: Cajun Restaurant

127 (corner): Suite 16 was Re-bar

8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

Corner (270 W 17th): Grand Chelsea (apartments)














<===             WEST 16TH STREET             ===>

West:

Port Authority Building

111: This block-filling building, originally known as the Union Inland Terminal No. 1, was built by the Port Authority in 1932 to relieve congestion by consolidating and redistributing truck shipments. When built, it may have had more cubic space than any building in the world--later surpassed by the Pentagon. To make the project self-supporting, the upper floors were designed to be rented out to private businesses, which set a legal precedent for public entities engaging in commercial transactions. It also served as the headquarters for the Port Authority until they were moved to the World Trade Center.

There's a Banana Republic on the ground floor. Google's New York office occupies the entire 4th floor. The Deutsch, Inc. ad agency has its headquarters here.

8
T
H

A
V
E
N
U
E

East:

116 (corner): Mary Ann's, above-par local Mexican chain

114: Pad Thai Noodle Lounge

112: Gerry's, one of the few boutiques in Chelsea aimed at women.


108: Chelsea Ristorante, Tuscan

106: Sumo

104: Rue des Crepes; Cookie's Fine Foods

102 (corner): Vnyl, part of a mini-chain of Thai-inflected faux diners; the Skittle-colored decor is the big draw, including bathrooms that are shrines to Cher and Elvis. Used to be Diner 24, before that Doherty's Coffee House.


<===             WEST 15TH STREET             ===>

Near this spot in colonial times was a monument to General Wolfe, who captured Quebec for the British.

West:






85: The Thomas Eddy

81 (corner): Bank Building Apartments, built in 1896 as the New York Bank for Savings, later Gold Dome Bank; later Central Carpet.

8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

96: La Taza de Oro ("The Cup of Gold"), decades-old Puerto Rican restaurant

80 (corner): This building is home to the Greenwich Village Chamber of Commerce--is it a bad sign that it's located outside the Village? Here are also the offices of the International Cinematographers Guild. On the top floor is New Directions, a publishing house founded by steel heir and poet James Laughlin in 1936, which brought out volumes by Ezra Pound, HD, William Carlos Williams, F. Scott Fitzgerald, James Joyce, Kenneth Patchen, Hermann Hesse, Henry Miller, Muriel Spark, Bob Kaufman, Anne Carson and numerous other avant-gardists.


<===             WEST 14TH STREET             ===>
The boundary between the Village and Chelsea.

Near this intersection was the center of Sapohannikan, an Indian community that became the nucleus for Greenwich Village.

West:

75-79 (corner): Was New York County National Bank (1907); later Manufacturers Hanover branch; now a theater (additions 1999).

73: Chicago B.L.U.E.S. has become Go, a bar with all-white decor that salvaged part of the neon sign.

71: The Lumber Store Inc

69: McManus JAS Florist

65 (corner): Village Pizza









<===         W 13TH ST






8
T
H

A
V
E

East:










GREENWICH AVE         ===>

Jackson Square

This 1826 park was apparently named for President Andrew Jackson, a hero for New York Democrats at the time.













<===             WEST 4TH STREET                            

<===             HORATIO STREET             ===>

West:








39: Chatelaine (gifts)

31: Tavern on Jane, neighborhood place

8
T
H

A
V
E

East:





52: Art Bar, drinking and paintings

48: Chocolate Bar, in solid and liquid forms




<===             JANE STREET             ===>

                        WEST 4TH STREET             ===>

West:

23: House of Cards & Curiosities

13: Abingdon Guest House






8
T
H

A
V
E

East:








22: Ink Pad, for all your stamping needs; Casa Magazines/Global News has many foreign papers.


<===             WEST 12TH STREET             ===>

West:

Abingdon Square

Admiral Peter Warren, who once owned most of what is now Greenwich Village, gave his daughter Charlotte land in the vicinity of this square when she married Willoughby Bertie, the Earl of Abingdon. When New York was replacing royalist placenames in 1794, Abingdon Square was spared because the Abingdons in England had defended the American rebellion.




Statue in square is of a World War I doughboy.









8
T
H

A
V
E

East:

Corner (302 W 12th): A luxury apartment house built in the 1930s by Bing $amp; Bing.

4: Shag; despite serving finger food, this restaurant's walls are covered in white shag carpeting.

2 (corner): A 17-year-old Betty Bacall (soon to be renamed Lauren) moved to this red-brick apartment building, just before she became Miss Greenwich Village 1942. It wasn't long before Diana Vreeland was putting her on the cover of Harper's Bazaar, leading to her Hollywood career.


BLEECKER ST         ===>

Bleecker Street Playground







<===             HUDSON STREET             ===>












You would get the impression from the guidebooks that not much ever happened on Eighth Avenue. But that's not true, is it? Write to Jim Naureckas and tell him about your favorite spots.

New York Songlines Home.

Sources for the Songlines.

Share